At the End of the First Half
Now 45 days (exactly half of our Schengen allowance) into our clockwise circumnavigation of the Iberian Peninsula by motorhome and bicycle, we are finding it quite changed since earlier visits. Our first landing here was in the Algarve in Portugal in 1988, flying in for the two-week Easter break with our bicycles. Unforgettable was the smell of orange blossom in the air throughout that ride, as well as being ferried across a river, bikes and bags and all, by a local in a small rowing boat when a bridge promised on our map failed to materialise.
But now, sadly, along the coastal rim of Spain and Portugal the holiday-maker (“let’s have fun in the sun”) reigns. Each in their own linguistically defined enclave. On the extensive campsites German is usually the lingua franca, in which fortunately Margaret is fluent, surprising many a German who has never met an English person using their language. Slightly puzzled by her accent, they often ask if she is Swiss or Dutch! As Barry has vivid memories of being bombed throughout his childhood, in Hull in the early 1940’s, he has a less friendly approach and an out-of-date vocabulary, best not used in making friends: Blitzkrieg! Gott im Himmel! Messerschmidt, Afrika Korps, Achtung!!
Below is a picture from Christmas Eve when, just past Tarifa at the southernmost point of Spain, we rode out to the lighthouse standing alone on Cape Trafalgar. Memories stretch back to schooldays when we first learned that hereabouts in October 1805 Nelson defeated the combined navies of France and Spain, leaving Britain to rule the waves – for a while. It’s very rewarding when our cycling meets history and geography, all neatly combined. Now we have turned inland to visit medieval Caceres and the substantial remains at Merida (Augusta Emerita), capital of the Roman Province of Lusitania which encompassed most of modern-day Portugal and a large portion of western Spain. Our onward route will turn west into Portugal.
We cannot end without a mention of the achievements of Brexit. In fact two mentions. Firstly our recent YouTube video shows us leaving the overnight P&O ferry in Europort near Rotterdam and waiting over 5 minutes at the border police post. They had to inspect and stamp our passports and (a new idea) supervise the taking of our fingerprints and a photograph of our faces. Luckily we were first off the ferry, so there was a long line of motorhomes, campervans, caravans and commercial vans behind us in single file. Say 30 of them: that’s 150 minutes or 2½ hours for some! Get a dashcam’s eye view on YouTube: https://youtu.be/D8n0LjE4_E4. Cars had their own lane and separate long queue.
Secondly, there is one key aim in which Brexit was successful: preventing His Majesty’s subjects from learning how much progress other European countries are making with infrastructure. Spain is typical with dedicated bike paths, greenways, freedom to roam in open country, extensive networks of motorways (with magnificent civil engineering feats of tunnels and viaducts in the mountains), high-speed trains, multiple simple pedestrian crossings well respected by motorists, calmer and courteous driving with safe overtaking. In mainland Europe this is generally backed up with fairer education systems (often free of religious bias and without endless testing and competition) and, perhaps above all, efficient and effective health and care systems. Did we forget to mention more sober and intelligent TV channels, with little emphasis on money-winning quizzes and competitions and more on information and good entertainment. And we see no charity shops – perhaps less need for charities. What would our ‘royal family’ do if they couldn’t each patronise countless charities and bless the homeless?
Breaking News
We have just seen our first storks returning early from Africa to their nests on the Roman Aqueduct at Merida: a sure sign of spring in the air. And a group of resident azure-winged magpies in the trees and on the ground adjacent to our motorhome in Caceres. Also known as the Iberian Magpie, they are unique to the southern half of this peninsula, although related to a species found in China, Korea, Japan and north into Mongolia and southern Siberia. These are among the true joys of travel.
But now, sadly, along the coastal rim of Spain and Portugal the holiday-maker (“let’s have fun in the sun”) reigns. Each in their own linguistically defined enclave. On the extensive campsites German is usually the lingua franca, in which fortunately Margaret is fluent, surprising many a German who has never met an English person using their language. Slightly puzzled by her accent, they often ask if she is Swiss or Dutch! As Barry has vivid memories of being bombed throughout his childhood, in Hull in the early 1940’s, he has a less friendly approach and an out-of-date vocabulary, best not used in making friends: Blitzkrieg! Gott im Himmel! Messerschmidt, Afrika Korps, Achtung!!
Below is a picture from Christmas Eve when, just past Tarifa at the southernmost point of Spain, we rode out to the lighthouse standing alone on Cape Trafalgar. Memories stretch back to schooldays when we first learned that hereabouts in October 1805 Nelson defeated the combined navies of France and Spain, leaving Britain to rule the waves – for a while. It’s very rewarding when our cycling meets history and geography, all neatly combined. Now we have turned inland to visit medieval Caceres and the substantial remains at Merida (Augusta Emerita), capital of the Roman Province of Lusitania which encompassed most of modern-day Portugal and a large portion of western Spain. Our onward route will turn west into Portugal.
We cannot end without a mention of the achievements of Brexit. In fact two mentions. Firstly our recent YouTube video shows us leaving the overnight P&O ferry in Europort near Rotterdam and waiting over 5 minutes at the border police post. They had to inspect and stamp our passports and (a new idea) supervise the taking of our fingerprints and a photograph of our faces. Luckily we were first off the ferry, so there was a long line of motorhomes, campervans, caravans and commercial vans behind us in single file. Say 30 of them: that’s 150 minutes or 2½ hours for some! Get a dashcam’s eye view on YouTube: https://youtu.be/D8n0LjE4_E4. Cars had their own lane and separate long queue.
Secondly, there is one key aim in which Brexit was successful: preventing His Majesty’s subjects from learning how much progress other European countries are making with infrastructure. Spain is typical with dedicated bike paths, greenways, freedom to roam in open country, extensive networks of motorways (with magnificent civil engineering feats of tunnels and viaducts in the mountains), high-speed trains, multiple simple pedestrian crossings well respected by motorists, calmer and courteous driving with safe overtaking. In mainland Europe this is generally backed up with fairer education systems (often free of religious bias and without endless testing and competition) and, perhaps above all, efficient and effective health and care systems. Did we forget to mention more sober and intelligent TV channels, with little emphasis on money-winning quizzes and competitions and more on information and good entertainment. And we see no charity shops – perhaps less need for charities. What would our ‘royal family’ do if they couldn’t each patronise countless charities and bless the homeless?
Breaking News
We have just seen our first storks returning early from Africa to their nests on the Roman Aqueduct at Merida: a sure sign of spring in the air. And a group of resident azure-winged magpies in the trees and on the ground adjacent to our motorhome in Caceres. Also known as the Iberian Magpie, they are unique to the southern half of this peninsula, although related to a species found in China, Korea, Japan and north into Mongolia and southern Siberia. These are among the true joys of travel.
Azure-winged magpies on the ground adjacent to our motorhome in Caceres
Margaret at the lighthouse standing alone on Cape Trafalgar
The beach immediately to the north of Cape Trafalgar
This is what we call a 'cycle path' running for several miles on the Costa de la Luz
Coffee on the verandah of 'El Bar' on the road to and from Cape Trafalgar